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Our growing love of Alpine wines has been drawing more exports from tiny Bugey, near Savoie. Here, Chardonnay is the main white grape--but it's not like the Burgundy version, and far from Cali. This is medium bodied, a wine with an earthy depth and a delicate bitter note in the middle of brown butter and golden apple. Light resinous aromas. Unoaked. Organic grapes.